8/10/2006
S45 Construction adding the rails p-21
Photo 21 shows adding the rails. Notice that the rails are made of two pcs. 1/4X1/8 for the first one and then 3/8X1/8 for the second. You need to start both at the transom. Start at the transom with the rails and stringers. Start one side and go forward to station 9 or 10, then do the same on the other side. Then go all the way to the front with one side. Starting both sides at the same time keep the transom from twisting.
S45 Construction Keel pieces P-20
Photo 20 shows the two keel pieces going in these are 3/8 by 1/8. John used balsa, but could be done with spruce instead.
S45 Construction 1/8X3/8 spruce for the chain plates P-17
John's photo showing the 1/8X3/8 spruce for the chain plates.
These need to be installed before the rails go in.
These need to be installed before the rails go in.
8/07/2006
Star 45 Model Sailboat, HULL,
Attached photo of today's effort plus the latest on my boat.
{From: "John Whiteford"
8/06/2006
Building Star 45 model sail boats with laser cut shadows
From: "John Fisher"
I started building my two boats with the laser cut shadows last night. They look good. About 4 hours to build two building boards, put shadows/frames on the boards and apply stringers.
8/01/2006
Look Look My Boat is sinking, Flotation Balloons for Star45 model sail boat
From Phil Geren, 2006 August 1
It makes perfect sense to put light weight, sealed, plastic balloons/etc. inside a Star 45, with total buoyancy equivalent to at least 12 lbs (or whatever the boat's weight is). Install it so that it cannot interfere with control mechanisms.
Ron Stephans, Victoria Class champion, has been doing it for years.
Earlier this year, in a race, I hooked masts with another boat, wind was strong, and the conditions were such that my boat was held more or less horizontal, while the other boat was semi-vertical.
My boat was on her beam ends and was taking on water slowly through a couple of Pekabe through deck blocks, where the sheets exit on deck. At first we just decided to let the wind blow the boats to shore, BUT WE SOON REALIZED THAT THERE WAS NO TIME!
My boat was sinking, and it probably would have pulled the other boat down to the extent that water could enter her also. Result: both boats would end up on the bottom.
Luckily, one of the participants had a kayak on his vehicle roof, and we ran to get it. When we got to the boats, mine was over half full of water. Spraying the electronics with Corrosion X got her going again, but I will never forget that experience. I have balloons, now, and maybe even more important, am slightly less aggressive when near others.
It makes perfect sense to put light weight, sealed, plastic balloons/etc. inside a Star 45, with total buoyancy equivalent to at least 12 lbs (or whatever the boat's weight is). Install it so that it cannot interfere with control mechanisms.
Ron Stephans, Victoria Class champion, has been doing it for years.
Earlier this year, in a race, I hooked masts with another boat, wind was strong, and the conditions were such that my boat was held more or less horizontal, while the other boat was semi-vertical.
My boat was on her beam ends and was taking on water slowly through a couple of Pekabe through deck blocks, where the sheets exit on deck. At first we just decided to let the wind blow the boats to shore, BUT WE SOON REALIZED THAT THERE WAS NO TIME!
My boat was sinking, and it probably would have pulled the other boat down to the extent that water could enter her also. Result: both boats would end up on the bottom.
Luckily, one of the participants had a kayak on his vehicle roof, and we ran to get it. When we got to the boats, mine was over half full of water. Spraying the electronics with Corrosion X got her going again, but I will never forget that experience. I have balloons, now, and maybe even more important, am slightly less aggressive when near others.
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