Prop Builders Molding and Casting - BookQuoted:
The Plug
You can't make a mold until you have a model or a pattern to work from. You can sculpt something out of clay or use an existing object. Sometimes its best to start with an existing object and then make changes by adding clay or other materials and sculpting new features
The Mold
....... latex rubber mold and plaster casting The mold forms a cavity that you fill with something else to make a part. Learn how to work with rigid and flexible molds, from simple one piece open back molds to split or multi part molds to handle undercuts. Work with the following Mold materials:Plaster - Rigid, inexpensive and fast. Many grades of plaster are available, but common "Plaster of Paris" works fine.
Alginate-
Mix powder with water and it sets up fast to form a soft rubbery material that's safe for skin contact. This picks up fine detail and is the only material for making molds from hands feet etc... This is what your dentist uses when he makes an impression of your teeth. It has a short life and must be used quickly.
Latex Rubber-
Thin liquid rubber that is brushed on in layers to build up a skin mold. This material is very stretchy and can be removed from undercuts and other features, but it also picks up fine detail. Latex is often used with a plaster back-up for larger parts.
Silicone Rubber-
More expensive, but it produces a long lasting tough rubber mold that can be poured in thicker sections to create a "Block" mold of an item. Silicone can also be used with a plaster back-up to save on cost.
Moulage-
This is similar to Alginate, but is a lumpy gelatin compound that must be heated to reach pouring consistency.
Mold Releases
Some mold materials are self releasing, but others aren't. If you want to be able to remove your finished casting, then you must use the proper mold release such as Petroleum jelly, Wax, PVA, Green soap, Talc, and sometimes even water.
Making The Castings
More well documented examples of unique casting materials. Learn how to do Absorption Casting with liquid clay in a plaster mold. The plaster absorbs water from the clay, and when you pour out the excess you have a uniform shell. You can also use Neoprene rubber for absorption casting. See how to make a reinforced Latex mold from an uncooked turkey. Learn how to make Laminated Castings with a female mold using Papier Mache, Fiberglass and Celastic which is a plastic filled plastic that's activated by soaking it in acetone.
Work with "Hot Melts and Thermoplastics". Hot Melts, are moldable when heated and solid at room temperature. Some examples are Hot melt glue sticks, Waxes, Plasticine, and hot melt PVC plastic. Again, you get to see an item cast from each material.
Learn how to make "Break Away" glass for window panes and bottles. This book even includes a simple recipe for Sugar Glass that can be mad in your kitchen. A more modern material called "Picco Resin" is more popular than sugar glassand you get detailed instructions on how to cast a window pane and make a fake glass bottle.
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Paper Mache Clay Recipe | Ultimate Paper MacheIt might be a bit more accurate to call this material “home-made air-dried cellulose-reinforced polymer clay,” but that’s way too hard to say (or type!), so for now, let’s just call it paper mache clay.
<a href="http://ultimatepapermache.com/paper-mache-clay">Jonni Good's Paper Mache Book</a>
How to Make Paper for Molding | eHow.comThere are many different uses for paper. One way people use paper is for paper molding or casting. People pour moist paper into a mold, press the water out using a sponge and let the paper dry.
When the paper is removed from the mold, it is thick and hard. It creates a strong material that can be used for decorating. Producing paper for molding is a quick procedure that requires no experience or special skills. The produced paper can be used for ornaments, jewelry, sculptures or other cast items.
Rustic Model Boats - WelcomeThe owner is Mike John. Many of you know him from the Duckworks online amateur boatbuilding magazine owned by Chuck and Sandra. This site will help you find the information you need.
The site is about cruising model boats. Not the racing classes, but rather the sort that slowly meanders across a pond rather than race a course
John invites skippers to gather and just have their boats
meandering around in a relaxed way at
Lake Macquarie, Australia.
Model Boat journal
Lester Gilbert on boat balance
The boat is balanced by either moving the sail plan forward to reduce weather helm/increase lee helm, or moving the sail plan back to reduce lee helm/increase weather helm. Depending upon the mast step you have in your hull, you'll do this by raking the mast (pivoting it on its heel), or moving it fore and aft in a mast slot.
For any given hull/rig combination, Graham Bantock feels the degree of weather helm is dictated by three basic factors:
* mast rake/mast position
* relative twist in main and jib
* relative sheeting angle of main and jib
with the minor factors:
* relative camber of main and jib
* relative shape of main and jib.
He goes on to say:
There is a fairly small range of successful pairings of twist and sheeting angle. The sheeting angle ranges are covered by the range 8 to 15 degrees for the jib, and 2 to 8 degrees for the main. Keep the twist in the sails so they look much the same from astern. Use mast rake/mast position and relative sheet angle to tune the balance. Use sail camber primarily as a throttle - fairly flat in very light airs, fuller as wind speed increases up to the point where you need to keep the boat more upright for best speed and pointing when you flatten sharply. Camber can also be used to adjust the helm of the boat. Experiment.
As far as I can tell, my Ikon and Italiko tune up just like any other IOM, the major issue being to get their balance right -- ie, appropriate weather helm. So far, I've found both work best for me with a touch of weather helm, that is, when they reliably round up into the wind rather than sailing "neutrally" with my finger off the rudder stick. If you have your rudder trim calibrated, I'd suggest going for that amount of mast rake which gives you about 2 or 3 degrees of weather helm as the "ideal".
As an aside, some sailors feel that mast rake does other things for you, perhaps improving the lift characteristics if the mast is raked well back to give some sort of "sweepback". As far as I can see, mast rake in an IOM is exclusively concerned with boat balance and helm, and has negligible other effects on any other characteristics of the boat.
There is an aspect of helm that has puzzled me for quite a while, and that is the phenomenon called "snap" weather helm. This happens when an otherwise well-behaved boat luffs violently into wind when a puff hits, and I had this problem with my Ikon. When I started sailing my Italiko and until recently, I never encountered it, and began thinking that snap weather helm might be a characteristic of hull shape. I realised I was wrong about hull shape when my Italiko snapped back at me, and I spent a little time investigating. It now seems to me that I had inadequate rig tune.
About the Chart | The Shipwrecks of Boston HarborThe Shipwrecks of Boston Harbor
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About the Chart
The Shipwrecks of Boston Harbor chart on this website was researched, designed and produced by diver and author Robert Sullivan. Proceeds from the sale of the chart benefit both the Hull Lifesaving Museum and Children's Hospital, Boston.
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