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9/10/2007
RE: [Star45] Fwd: [Sailing Models Breeze Chasers] New comment on RC Laser {from Tillerman}.
At Monday 9/10/2007 03:35 AM -0700, Ed Hilton posted:
>hi
>I found this site while looking for info on the star 45
>He does classic IOD boats as well http://www.angelfire.com/fl4/mft/
>hi
>I found this site while looking for info on the star 45
>He does classic IOD boats as well http://www.angelfire.com/fl4/mft/
>Ed
Good site.
>Star, Etchells 22, and IOD models, half models and laser cut frames
>International Star Class models
>I built Star 3909 in 1957 and raced her on Lake Hopatcong, NJ and Long Island Sound. Over the years I have owned 3 other Stars and now offer Star Class laser cut frames for Star 45 Class and other size models of the Star. Star models are very easy to build due to their flat sides and small arc bottom.
Take a look at the number of models and lazer cut frames
He "now offer(s) Star Class laser cut frames for Star 45 Class"
Now If I can only get the comments approval to work on
http://sailingmodels.blogspot.com/
Dave Mainwaring
6/19/2007
5/29/2007
Wanna go fast? GET THAT TOPPING LIFT RIGHT
GET THAT TOPPING LIFT RIGHT (if you wanna go fast)!
By Phil Geren
Of all the go fast stuff I have learned from tuning experts over the past year, the most valuable, and the thing that has provided the most additional boat speed for my 13#-3.5oz Star 45 (the "Fat Lady") is how to get the Jib's topping lift set right. I am doing much better in my racing since learning this.
The curve of the leech of the Jibsail MUST resemble as closely as possible the curve of the leeward surface of the Mainsail when sighting from the foredeck. If the Jib's leech is flatter or fuller your boat will not attain its speed potential while beating and reaching.
The topping lift enables you to get the curves aligned. Tightening the topping lift makes the Jib's leech fuller, more curved. Loosening the topping lift makes the Jib's leech flatter. With a little practice you can get the curves to be identical.
Here's how:
Pull the Mainsail in to the beating position; Swivel the Jib boom with your finger (apply only lateral force, no upward or downward force on the Jib boom) so that when you sight from the foredeck and look up and down the curve of the windward surface of the leech of the Jibsail it is superimposed on the curve of the back (leeward) surface of the Mainsail.
Are the curves identical? If not, is the Jib's leech more curved?
If it is, loosen the topping lift.
If the Jib's leech is flatter, tighten the topping lift.
Make small adjustments. This is very sensitive, and you can get it right if you persevere.
Recheck the need for adjustment after every few heats of racing or if you change anything else.
On sailboats EVERYTHING is related to everything else, and you will need to readjust periodically to maintain your added speed.
Don't have a topping lift? INSTALL ONE NOW! You won't believe the improvement!
By Phil Geren
Of all the go fast stuff I have learned from tuning experts over the past year, the most valuable, and the thing that has provided the most additional boat speed for my 13#-3.5oz Star 45 (the "Fat Lady") is how to get the Jib's topping lift set right. I am doing much better in my racing since learning this.
The curve of the leech of the Jibsail MUST resemble as closely as possible the curve of the leeward surface of the Mainsail when sighting from the foredeck. If the Jib's leech is flatter or fuller your boat will not attain its speed potential while beating and reaching.
The topping lift enables you to get the curves aligned. Tightening the topping lift makes the Jib's leech fuller, more curved. Loosening the topping lift makes the Jib's leech flatter. With a little practice you can get the curves to be identical.
Here's how:
Pull the Mainsail in to the beating position; Swivel the Jib boom with your finger (apply only lateral force, no upward or downward force on the Jib boom) so that when you sight from the foredeck and look up and down the curve of the windward surface of the leech of the Jibsail it is superimposed on the curve of the back (leeward) surface of the Mainsail.
Are the curves identical? If not, is the Jib's leech more curved?
If it is, loosen the topping lift.
If the Jib's leech is flatter, tighten the topping lift.
Make small adjustments. This is very sensitive, and you can get it right if you persevere.
Recheck the need for adjustment after every few heats of racing or if you change anything else.
On sailboats EVERYTHING is related to everything else, and you will need to readjust periodically to maintain your added speed.
Don't have a topping lift? INSTALL ONE NOW! You won't believe the improvement!
5/27/2007
Tips on setting Spektrum up with an RMG Smart
Subject: Re: [Star45] Spektrum Radio question - Star 45
Ted,
I have used the same setup you are using for a while now. I have not had any power issues with the RMG since it seems to have a good voltage regulator. My brother has had issues in the CR914 using 4 cell packs. I use 5 cell packs and have recently started using 2 cell lipo's.
Depending on the age of your RMG you will need to add a pulser to make it work with the spektrum receiver. If you have a RMG 280 C or a recent 280D it isnt an issue, but there are some 280Ds that need the pulser, check the RMG site for the serial #'S effected. I have used the pulser with good results. You do need to make a harness so you can program the winch. Photo attached.
The harness is has a female to attach to the winch and then 2 male ends. One of the male ends has the + and - power and is plugged into an open channel or battery slot on the receiver. The other male end can have a switch in it or just inset and remove the plug as needed to interrupt the signal. This can be make out of an aileron extension available from LHS. If using a pulser, it should be placed on the signal line for programming.
John
-------Original Message-------
From: Ted
Date: 5/24/2007 11:32:23 AM
To: Star45@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Star45] Spektrum Radio question - Star 45
I just purchased a Spektrum DX6 radio for my Star 45. Does
anyone have any Tips on setting it up with an RMG Smart Winch and
using it with the Star 45? I purchased a larger capacity NiMH
battery for the transmitter to improve run time. I understand that
the radio / receiver may experience a power hit that may cause the
radio to reset -- resulting in no control for 5 or 6 seconds. Anyone
experience this problem? I purchased a Spektrum Voltage Protector to
solve the problem. Any comments would be appreciated.
Thanks
Ted Mahoney
Star45 : naca0009 rudder
Star45 : Message: Re: [Star45] Photo's of naca0009 rudder: "Re: [Star45] Photo's of naca0009 rudder
I am happy with how they turned out. I sent the production files to Stevens Monday, so you should be able to order a rudder if you need one. He doesn't have it posted yet, but if you call him he can cut them for you.
I built mine by clamping all the pcs together with the alignment pins in place (1/8 sq stock left over from stringers). Then CA'd it together with thin CA. I used my random orbital sander with 150 grit to shape it. Took about 15 min or so. With the different layers you can see if you are removing material evenly. Once sanded I sprayed the rudder with 3M 77, covered with 3 oz glass, one PC folding it over the leading edge so there is no seam on the leading edge. I then added resin and vac bagged in my handy food saver. The next day I pulled off the breather and peel ply, sanded smooth and varnished.
The glass is probably not needed since the core is made out of ply. I used the glass to ensure it is not coming apart and only adds another 10 min or so to do. With the vac bagging it is very smooth and uniform with only a little sanding required to remove the texture of the peel ply. I did buy a yard of breather and peel ply, but waxed paper with holes in it and paper towels can be substituted."
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